Distance: 399km
Dep: 10:00am
Arr: 3:00pm
Temperature: 21°C - 31°C
Total distance to date: 6336km
Caption: Nena hanging out at a rest stop in the Shark Bay shire. We had to dig a small hole in the sand for the kickstand to go into before taking this shot.
"Wow, how's your back?"
"My knees hurt just looking at that bike."
"How do you go for comfort on that thing?"
I frequently get questioned about my choice of motorbike for this type of riding. Long distances, hot weather, impromptu off-roading, and a uncomfortable body position (for many) will put many riders right off sportbikes. We thought about buying a typical adventure bike (BMW GS 1250) but at the end of the day, you'd want to do a trip like this with a best mate, not a stranger. Essentially, this bike is going with you to explore one of the largest countries in the world, in unknown weather and road conditions. You'd need someone you can trust to go into the storms with.
Nena was my dream bike - I had saved up enough coin working 3 jobs so I could purchase her in Vancouver. When I made the decision to move to Australia, the act of moving wiped my savings, and I had to save up again for another 5 years.
Nena and I met in March 2020, just before Melbourne went into 18 months of lockdowns. Since we've come out of it, we've been on many adventures together, and she's never skipped a beat. She was obviously my bike of choice for this trip and there isn't another bike I'd want to do this on (this time, at least).
Caption: Patiently waiting to be loaded up for our next leg to Monkey Mia.
Our first leg out of Kalbarri was a smooth, highly spirited and joyful ride through the Kalbarri National Park. Not a cop in sight, and traffic was spread out enough that it was easy to pass. Riding these roads on a litre bike was an absolute thrill, as long as the emus stay well and truly in the bush where they belong. The roads changed elevation frequently so that you could see the entirety of the park in all its glory, across multiple peaks leading out to National Highway 1.
Caption: The Billabong Roadhouse hasn't changed in decades, and I don't suspect they'll start anytime soon.
A left turn took us back onto the main road toward our next stop at the Billabong Roadhouse. There were about 8 pumps and only 1 was working, so we joined the queue of caravans and Combi vans that lay in patient wait to refuel. The vibe was pumping inside, the salad rolls were fresh, and travellers from all of the world had parked off to the side to check their tyre pressures and plan the next bit of their trip.
"There's so much to see and do, we should hang at the beach and plan everything there."
- Overheard from a young, French female traveller sharing a van with 5 other backpackers
Gotta love an open ended itinerary.
Caption: Inside the Billabong Roadhouse - numerous photos left over from travellers, including an entire wall dedicated to tattoos.
I noticed that there were still more travellers compared to my last trip, and I started to think it was likely because the time I went was earlier in the year, closer to summer, and likely too hot for most people. Temperatures during my trip back then averaged at 35 degrees for most of the lap, with many days in the 40's. This time of year is much more pleasant, and we've been going through a lot less water than I thought. We enjoyed nearly perfect weather aside from the time a higher power decided to test us, but I'm alright with that.
The last trip was also much more of a test of persistance and a mission for self growth. I had no set future here in Australia, in fact I was due to have to return home at the end of the trip. I didn't know what Australia would be like, and I also had no money. I didn't have a job, or savings, so everything was done on the skinny. The bike I had was a basic Suzuki GSXR600 that was duct taped together and had no tech - not even a fuel gauge. Luggage was basic, was ocky strapped down and repeatedly caused issues throughout the trip.
This time around, as an Ausralian citizen with more of a savings buffer (I'm not rich, just comfortable enough to tap my phone when paying for a coffee and know there's some funds in there) with a bike that has cruise control, heated grips, a fuel gauge that counts down, and the best luggage I've ever seen on any bike. I'm saying in far better places than out the back of an outback roadhouse, and am doing it with my partner.
As I made my way through these same roads, I often imagined a ghost of myself riding these exact roads and acknowledging the rush of feelings I had back then. It was a grand time - I was a lot more carefree about speeding tickets back then.
The ride from Billabong Roadhouse to Hamelin Pool was a short 40km before we had to turn off onto the 129km detour to Denham. Most travellers would have kept trekking along the National Highway, though we were keen to see some dolphins and spend some time breathing in air that doesn't contain exhaust fumes. The ride was smooth and curvy, the roads were perfectly maintained, and the fellow travellers all maintained their speed when we passed them. Winning already.
Caption: A quick, pothole-filled ride to see the stromatolites at Hamelin Pool, but alas there were none.
Denham is a small beachy resort town that people often launch their fishing boats from, or use as a base to explore the surrounding 4WD tracks. We fuelled up, enjoyed an ice cream and watched the waves come in at the beach across the street. Then we got back onto the saddle for the short 18km stint to Monkey Mia.
Caption: Our arrival at Monkey Mia. The gate was unattended, with a QR code to pay for a national park pass.
Caption: Finally out of riding gear, hoping to work on my tan this trip.
Monkey Mia is a national park, and because we're staying longer than 24 hours, a $25 monthly pass was required per person. We had dinner at 4:30pm as we missed lunch and couldn't deal with the crowds. It paid off, the jetty was nearly free of people - perfect to watch the sunset from after a long walk on the beach. Turtles appeared near the jetty, a pelican landed near a group of fishers in hopes they'll share their next catch, and a pontoon of people slowly skimmed past during the sunset while listening to Elton John's "Rocketman".
Caption: Sunsets in Western Australia simply hit different.
Walking back to the hotel, we were treated to the sight of a family of playful dolphins in the water. WA is really something else - a perfect place to rewrite history and welcome new memories. The vibes of this place took me right back to the simple life of my late 20's, when I could pack a go-bag and disappear on a weekender with not a care in the world.
[Day 19 was spent meeting the local dolphins, followed by a delicious eggs benedict (symbolic of the last time I was here) and iced coffee, and naps on the beach.]
