Distance: 590km
Dep: 8:15am
Arr: 3:30pm
Temperature: 26°C - 35°C
Total distance to date: 10,895km
Route:
- Darwin
- Katherine
- Mataranka
- Daly Waters
Caption: Loading up our bikes with luggage inside a highly secure shed the night before a ride, a luxury we've never been able to enjoy.
The night prior, we decided to take full advantage of Kate's undercover, secure, super epic shed full of security cameras and load the bikes so that they're ready to go the next morning. Steph's two attempts to get to the shed had been foiled however, as they happened to come across two snakes on the way. Kate had been walking outdoors in socks and so very calmly mentioned that "that black one's a baddie" and Steph, wearing motorbike boots and shorts, declared "NOPE" and ran back in.
We had to stomp our boots as we walked to scare the snakes away, which seemed to work - at least enough to get to the shed safely.
The bikes fully loaded and dressed up, helmet visors cleaned, and a generous fuel top-up from Kate's fuel storage and we were ready to go.
Caption: Bikes are ready to make their way south!
The next morning rolled around way too quickly, and we made sure to get out of Kate's hair before the start of her workday. It was only a small detour off our route to see the iconic Big Boxing Croc in Humpty Doo, and we couldn't think of a better way to begin our journey south for the first time. Crocodiles are practically part of the identity here, although Queensland has claimed their own section as "Croc Country" officially.
Caption: The Boxing Croc in Humpty Doo, Northern Territory.
It was essentially a 634km detour to get to Darwin, so we backtracked the 317km through Adelaide River (for a refuel) and Katherine (for another refuel). Again, a total slab and my brain decided not to commit any of that ride to memory. Instead, I was belting out the lyrics to a steady playlist of old school love ballads. Unchained Melody was by far the best tune of that leg.
Caption: Tall palm trees populate much of the Top End of Australia. Quite different from the desert shrubs that offer no shade. We'll be seeing lots of them in the near future.
From Katherine, it was unchartered territory for Steph once more. We had only ever gone up as far as the NT border together, and because it was so hot during my first lap, I didn't stop in Mataranka to check out the hot springs. It was a short 3km detour off the highway to get to Bitter Springs - a natural spring surrounded by palm trees (and apparently, occasional crocs). Several signs warned visitors to swim in designated areas only, along with various depictions of crocs in the water.
Caption: The calm side of Bitter Springs in Mataranka NT. If I panned to the right, there would be about 40-50 holidaymakers splashing around.
It was also home to about 3 dozen pool noodles used by enthusiastic travellers of all ages. The water was so clear and relatively warm, but the air temperature was 35°C and I couldn't think of anything worse than putting back on motorcycle gear on wet clothing. I gave my neck gaiter a dip and we went to get back onto the bikes.
Back at the Mataranka Roadhouse, we choked down a few burgers that contained just bread, cheese, mystery meat, and regret. It sat like an absolute brick in my stomach and I suffered indigestion for the following 80km, so Steph lead the way just so I could focus on breathing.
Caption: The burger that permanently changed my view of roadhouse burgers (never again)
Caption: A quick pit stop to breathe out some indigestion from the roadhouse burger, but we were back on the bikes moments later.
It was an easy stint to Daly Waters, which as a settlement is located 4km off the Stuart Highway and contains a pub, fuel, a caravan park, and many non-functioning vehicles used as decor. We stopped at the pub for an iced tea to take in the ambiance. People from all over the world left something personal on the walls, including government IDs, lingerie, sports caps, army badges, and other items.
Caption: Daly Waters Pub presents an incredible opportunity for an identity thief.
Caption: One of the many interesting photo ops at Daly Waters.
Our accoms were only 7km away, so it didn't take long for us to get there for a refuel and a dip in the pool before dinner. I looked up at the satellite dish above the pool - a hand-painted mural with a sunset and a croc. Fitting!
Caption: Northern Territory humour, in a nutshell. Or chook pen.
The meatiest, freshest barramundi burger I have ever laid eyes on, vanished into thin air before I realised how hungry I was. We got back to our cabin just in time to listen to two hours of a woman screaming at the top of her lungs at her partner. The police wouldn't make the 140km trek to break the fight up, so we waited it out until she tired herself out.
Tomorrow we crack on toward Devils Marbles and into the red centre of Australia!
